l14107cb 发表于 2024-8-12 01:17:50

不吹不黑,客观分析为么国产的工装靴比不上美产的红翼?


    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">本文作者:NeverGone琛哥</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><strong style="color: blue;">创作立场声明:</strong>纯<span style="color: black;">兴趣</span>者,分享自己<span style="color: black;">晓得</span>的<span style="color: black;">有些</span>关于复古、咔叽、工装靴的知识,以及自己买过的<span style="color: black;">有些</span>东西,不要把我当成卖鞋卖衣服的商家(虽然<span style="color: black;">已然</span>遇到过<span style="color: black;">非常多</span>了。。。)</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">说到</span>国靴,<span style="color: black;">常常</span>就会有非常多<span style="color: black;">消极</span>的声音。<span style="color: black;">因为</span><span style="color: black;">消极</span>声音足够多,就<span style="color: black;">引起</span><span style="color: black;">非常多</span>不明真相的人<span style="color: black;">亦</span>跟风黑国靴,<span style="color: black;">况且</span><span style="color: black;">亦</span>产生了<span style="color: black;">非常多</span>错误的看法。除此之外还有<span style="color: black;">有些</span>极端的国靴黑粉,<strong style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">保持</span><span style="color: black;">运用</span>德克萨斯神枪手的<span style="color: black;">办法</span>,只<span style="color: black;">选择</span>对自己有利的证据</strong>,而对<span style="color: black;">非常多</span>客观事实避而不谈,由此带出了<span style="color: black;">更加多</span>的极端黑粉。</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">因此</span>,我觉得有必要写篇<span style="color: black;">文案</span>来澄清<span style="color: black;">有些</span>客观事实,让<span style="color: black;">大众</span><span style="color: black;">晓得</span>这些东西<span style="color: black;">到底</span>是怎么一回事。当然,<strong style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">亦</span>不指望改变多少极端黑粉的看法,毕竟言论自由</strong>,该黑的还是黑,该吃瓜的继续吃瓜。但<span style="color: black;">最少</span>,<strong style="color: blue;">多<span style="color: black;">认识</span>一点工装靴<span style="color: black;">关联</span>的知识<span style="color: black;">亦</span>好~</strong></p>
    <h2 style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;">利益<span style="color: black;">关联</span>:</h2>买过30多双国靴,其中10双在2000~3000价位Red Wing、RRL、Freewheelers、Tenjin Works、John Lofgren等高品质咔叽品牌都买过皮衣等皮质咔叽单品买的比较多,自认为对皮革与工艺比较<span style="color: black;">认识</span>,<span style="color: black;">因此</span>弄了个公主号“工装靴”。虽然总被人当成“商家”、“卖鞋的”、“卖衣服的”,但我<span style="color: black;">并不</span>卖任何东西<div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/344d97a2310849b7a2a9320f8a68e015~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=EU1IUoz2DwKQYOzPF9nW3lfOy20%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"> 下面<span style="color: black;">起始</span>,<span style="color: black;">首要</span>说说红翼好在哪。</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/fac06d6adc924e37ab7527ee47d2b5d7~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=5CzHSiphQsgFQrEvhAv%2BoVkaSwU%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">据我所知,大概以下几方面:</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">持有</span><span style="color: black;">非常多</span>符合部分人审美、经过历史洗礼的经典楦型,<span style="color: black;">例如</span>875、 8111等等</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/989e79e22c514e5e83a874bf0836b5ea~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=6gmVcpgrk8oJtgfalALIPPpn1Dw%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">2. 流水线固特异工厂大规模制造,并且有自己的皮厂S.B Foot Tannery,质量较为稳定</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/6059ea472e914a77baaacaca137734ff~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=6PX%2BeOtk6%2F6SVsPAM9rHp2gJDRs%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">3. 成立时间早,有历史文化底蕴,能带动复古文化,地位之于工装靴犹如Levis之于牛仔裤</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/5fd958aaeddb420ea8239355cc21550e~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=3X89Bzr4ZuF95aAV1ACj5tRvn8U%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">4. 保值,有<span style="color: black;">保藏</span>价值,<span style="color: black;">能够</span>去日拍、eBay<span style="color: black;">瞧瞧</span><span style="color: black;">哪些</span>几十年前的老红翼,<strong style="color: blue;">一点都<span style="color: black;">不方便</span>宜</strong></p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">工装靴好<span style="color: black;">欠好</span>,<span style="color: black;">能够</span>从<strong style="color: blue;">楦型、皮料、工艺</strong>这几个<span style="color: black;">方向</span>去评判,<span style="color: black;">详细</span>请见这篇<span style="color: black;">文案</span>: </p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/e19ddc55099b48e2b0be7b1c5d0c42d9~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=QFGR1WiNGo1eRX24AEgCaOR5yfE%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">工装靴可不是<span style="color: black;">仅有</span>红翼踢不烂,还有这些极致好品牌<span style="color: black;">博主</span>注:此篇<span style="color: black;">文案</span>来自#原创新人#活动,成功参与活动将<span style="color: black;">得到</span>额外100金币奖励。注册张大妈很久但<span style="color: black;">始终</span>没发东西,这次带来一篇入门科普文,并且<span style="color: black;">亦</span>会写<span style="color: black;">有些</span>关于工装靴的干货,觉得内容OK的<span style="color: black;">伴侣</span><span style="color: black;">能够</span>点个赞~正文共:6199字67图预计阅读时间:16分钟又到了穿靴的季节,在款式众多的靴子<span style="color: black;">其中</span>,琛哥觉得最好搭配、最能NeverGone琛哥|赞142评论111<span style="color: black;">保藏</span>880查看详情</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">红翼它楦型经典,皮料大多<span style="color: black;">选择</span>自家皮革厂S.B Foot Tannery出品的油皮(<span style="color: black;">虽然说</span>皮质不算很top,但油润,旧化有<span style="color: black;">保证</span>),工艺上采用<span style="color: black;">牢靠</span>度<span style="color: black;">亦</span>过得去的<span style="color: black;">设备</span>固特异,使得红翼比较耐穿,旧化效果可期。</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/c512aae8c466403c95917d0514234c46~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=kIoHbLy%2BhasAxfRUdKuM2J95DpA%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">至于定价,大<span style="color: black;">都数</span>款式官网价格在350刀以下,<span style="color: black;">因为</span><span style="color: black;">途径</span>广泛经销商众多,以及规模大打折<span style="color: black;">广泛</span>,海淘代购很容易以1000+的价格入手。实在缺钱还能<span style="color: black;">选取</span>Factory Second打孔版,价格直接低至100刀的都有。</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">综上,红翼的性价比无需多言。下面<span style="color: black;">来讲</span>说国靴。</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/a5b87125fdf94606bcbf9007ca15e15c~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=QTbqxwJKHH7iLx5mC6gsxnNU3Tw%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">国靴是一个很大的集合,仔细写的话我应该<span style="color: black;">能够</span>写出几万字。。。</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">因此</span><strong style="color: blue;">“国靴不如红翼”这个问题<span style="color: black;">实质</span>上是有点模糊的</strong>,红翼是一个品牌,而国靴是一个大集合,其中<span style="color: black;">每一个</span>品牌有自己的<span style="color: black;">特殊</span>,<span style="color: black;">亦</span>有缺点和优点。<strong style="color: blue;">用一个品牌去和一个大集合对比,貌似没太多的可比性。</strong></p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">国靴旧化好看的有<span style="color: black;">无</span>?——是有的</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">国靴旧化稀烂的有<span style="color: black;">无</span>?——<span style="color: black;">非常多</span></p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">当某种现象频繁<span style="color: black;">出现</span>的时候(<span style="color: black;">例如</span>国靴旧化稀烂),<span style="color: black;">广泛</span>的认知就产生了,<span style="color: black;">大众</span>都觉得国靴质量差、旧化烂。由此<span style="color: black;">亦</span><span style="color: black;">显现</span>了<span style="color: black;">非常多</span><span style="color: black;">无</span>多少购买经验却<span style="color: black;">亦</span>被带节奏跟风乱喷的人,这是很难避免的。<span style="color: black;">况且</span>这个<span style="color: black;">规律</span>其实<span style="color: black;">亦</span>没什么毛病,并且很容易<span style="color: black;">始终</span>循环下去:</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">国靴反对者:国靴垃圾,旧化丑!</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">国靴支持者:你没买过怎么<span style="color: black;">晓得</span>垃圾?</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">国靴反对者:明<span style="color: black;">晓得</span>是垃圾,我还去买?</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">……</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">下面我写简单写写<span style="color: black;">引起</span><span style="color: black;">大众</span>认为国靴质量垃圾旧化垃圾的<span style="color: black;">原由</span>吧,其实还是逃<span style="color: black;">不外</span>上面说的评判工装靴优劣的三大点:</p>
    <h3 style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;">1.工艺垃圾:</h3>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">低价位国靴大多<span style="color: black;">运用</span>胶粘,穿着用力过猛就会有开胶掉底的可能</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/4ed645025b0149f6b92c037eed2b0a40~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=4ELmZ0kb6g%2BcPMNuDvOo5z%2Fm9Qs%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <h3 style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;">2.皮料垃圾:</h3>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">这个<span style="color: black;">包括</span>两点,一是卖的便宜成本所限只能用垃圾皮了;二是老板黑心,价格卖的并不低,<span style="color: black;">然则</span><strong style="color: blue;">用垃圾皮以次充好并且还吹上天</strong>。</p>
    <h3 style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;">3.楦型垃圾:</h3>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">国靴主理人众多,审美有高有低,有时候做出几款难看的靴就会被狂黑。但大<span style="color: black;">都数</span><span style="color: black;">状况</span>是,低价位的国靴都不怎么<span style="color: black;">思虑</span>楦型好看,不会下功夫<span style="color: black;">科研</span>,照着畅销款套一套楦完事。<span style="color: black;">因此</span><span style="color: black;">这儿</span>又多了一重垃圾——“只会抄袭,垃圾”:</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">吃瓜路人:红翼<span style="color: black;">初期</span>抄袭过Chippewa</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">国靴反对者:你国靴只会抄红翼,垃圾!</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">不外</span>楦型这东西比较玄学且精深,<strong style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">倘若</span>不去原厂拿到原楦,很难套出完全一模一样的</strong>,这<span style="color: black;">亦</span>是<span style="color: black;">哪些</span>模仿RW的国靴总是做得四不像的<span style="color: black;">原由</span>。<span style="color: black;">因此</span>我觉得国靴最大的难点在于楦型,<strong style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">怎样</span>做出有辨识度、被<span style="color: black;">大众</span>认可、能沉淀好几年的楦,真是一大<span style="color: black;">困难</span></strong>。</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">因为</span>以上3点的存在,以及<strong style="color: blue;">国靴天生具备更大的关注度以及更低的错误容忍度</strong>,就<span style="color: black;">引起</span>了<span style="color: black;">日前</span>的坏名声,<span style="color: black;">另外</span>,还有<span style="color: black;">有些</span>小的<span style="color: black;">原由</span>,<span style="color: black;">例如</span>:</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">1. 老板or客服脾气差——卖的价格跟红翼差不多,我凭什么买国靴受气,国靴垃圾</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">2. 买国靴后<span style="color: black;">显现</span>了工装靴<span style="color: black;">平常</span>的瑕疵(详见),有些瑕疵并不严重但买家<span style="color: black;">需求</span>太高——国靴瑕疵多,垃圾</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">3. 听说好皮料都被大厂垄断了,国靴肯定拿不到好皮——国靴垃圾</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">……暂时举不出<span style="color: black;">更加多</span>例子了,欢迎<span style="color: black;">大众</span><span style="color: black;">弥补</span>~</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">如此种种,就形<span style="color: black;">成为了</span>国靴垃圾这种观念。下面简单说说我的看法:</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">抛开历史和情怀,我觉得工装靴这种东西,和<span style="color: black;">非常多</span>东西<span style="color: black;">同样</span>是一分钱一分货的。</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">针对</span>玩家而言,自然<span style="color: black;">期盼</span>以一个更易接受的价格,得到一双不错的鞋。尤其是<span style="color: black;">针对</span>追求性价比的玩家,在<span style="color: black;">她们</span>眼里,<strong style="color: blue;">把鞋子的情怀、历史、信仰等等<span style="color: black;">所有</span>剥离,剩下的用料、做工这些,在售价的占比上当然是越高越好</strong>,而一小部分国靴恰好就能实现这一点。</p>
    <h3 style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;">1.关于皮料</h3>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">国靴拿不到好皮料是个伪命题,只要<strong style="color: blue;">找到正确的经销商付出正确的价格,那基本上高品质的皮都能买到</strong>。<span style="color: black;">例如</span>霍尔文官网就有亚太总代的联系方式,手机还是+86开头的,他就在深圳那边,想买H皮直接联系他就完事了。。。更别提淘宝、1688、闲鱼上面的皮革卖家,国外<span style="color: black;">各样</span>皮革厂出品的<span style="color: black;">各样</span>皮,只要花点时间都能找到,不要太多。</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/8b30e397ffa84ca8877d12f2b1829749~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=WwSXK4goI7u8NRLVRHzCZws2%2Fj4%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">不外</span>,<span style="color: black;">针对</span><span style="color: black;">有些</span>比较高级的材料,<span style="color: black;">例如</span>高档正装鞋上用的JR皮底,国靴<span style="color: black;">常常</span>拿不到好的价格。<span style="color: black;">然则</span>Carmina、Vass这种牌子就能以比较低的价格拿到JR皮底,就像Alden能低价拿到Horween马臀<span style="color: black;">同样</span>。这个是<span style="color: black;">日前</span>国靴的规模与人脉所限,没什么<span style="color: black;">处理</span>办法。</p>
    <h3 style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;">2.关于工艺</h3>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">手工鞋上<span style="color: black;">平常</span>的工艺就<span style="color: black;">那样</span>几种:<span style="color: black;">设备</span>固特异、手缝沿条(<span style="color: black;">包括</span>琴底)、挪威缝(详见NeverGone琛哥:靴海科普|挪威缝到底是什么?来拆解一双鞋<span style="color: black;">瞧瞧</span>)、Triple Welt(详见NeverGone琛哥:靴海科普|全世界都只能看见几双的Triple Welt,到底是怎么做的?)。这些流传<span style="color: black;">数年</span>、资料公开且<span style="color: black;">广泛</span>的传统艺能,国外的工人能做,国内工人<span style="color: black;">同样</span>能做,并且<strong style="color: blue;">单位时间人工成本更低</strong>。<span style="color: black;">倘若</span>要说细节,<span style="color: black;">那样</span>找一个经验更丰富的鞋匠,多花时间死扣细节,最后的成品效果<span style="color: black;">亦</span>差不到哪里去,当然,价格<span style="color: black;">亦</span>会更贵。<span style="color: black;">这儿</span>拿WM1978的挪威缝工艺来举例。</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/ab7a398b30de4b019069d8acbffd1d33~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=e515dmTSrcQ0k1uDldrDC7zRJRs%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/72b2e25355084d298737698731cfdef9~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=V%2BD8Xs%2BIRzZPp3CqPIPX2%2FPA%2BXg%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">照片</span><span style="color: black;">源自</span>:WM1978官博</p>
    <h3 style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;">3.关于楦型</h3>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">这点上面说过,是一大<span style="color: black;">困难</span>,主理人的<span style="color: black;">奋斗</span>是一方面,消费者买不买单是另一方面。但只要上面2点做好,鞋子的耐久度就差不到哪里去。</p>
    <h3 style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;">4.关于匹配度</h3>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">第四点<span style="color: black;">亦</span>是<span style="color: black;">常常</span>最容易被忽略的一点,<span style="color: black;">便是</span>脚和楦型匹配度的问题。曾经在松面这篇里面写过,松面跟合脚度<span style="color: black;">亦</span>是<span style="color: black;">相关</span>系的,<strong style="color: blue;">一双不匹配的脚会把皮革厂和鞋匠的<span style="color: black;">奋斗</span>毁于一旦</strong>。同理,脚型对旧化<span style="color: black;">亦</span>有很大影响。有些鞋摆着好看,但穿旧了其实并<span style="color: black;">欠好</span>看。</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">大部分国内消费者(<strong style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">这儿</span>从宏观统计数据入手,请别拿微观个体来举例</strong>),<span style="color: black;">因为</span>遗传<span style="color: black;">原因</span>,脚型<span style="color: black;">常常</span>是:略宽,略短,脚背略高,由此对RW<span style="color: black;">非常多</span>D宽度的型号不匹配,<span style="color: black;">引起</span>的后果<span style="color: black;">便是</span>旧化<span style="color: black;">欠好</span>看嘛……你看<span style="color: black;">非常多</span>D宽的875旧化图,两边都被挤的<span style="color: black;">显著</span>凸出来了。</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p26-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/3e6b7beec83b4310918919bf982b7e2d~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=q0B73z%2FR6dqzgoZFJLIod8OHGk8%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">另一</span>还有些玩家<span style="color: black;">由于</span>脚宽,只好买大半码到一码,<span style="color: black;">这般</span>虽然宽度舒服了点,但<span style="color: black;">由于</span>折痕位置改变,使得旧化还是变丑了。。。</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/c19638d8c463472ba9f795b502657da1~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=Y%2BaF9K2SBT4OAQpBz%2FE2YOIf8ZM%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">处理</span><span style="color: black;">办法</span><span style="color: black;">亦</span>有,<span style="color: black;">便是</span>买更宽的<span style="color: black;">例如</span>E/EE,但这就在美观度上打折扣了,单独看会觉得其实<span style="color: black;">亦</span>没变多宽,但只要和D的摆<span style="color: black;">一块</span>,那<span style="color: black;">便是</span>非常<span style="color: black;">显著</span>……</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">你说<strong style="color: blue;">又要美观修饰脚型又要舒适</strong>那怎么办?还是有办法的,找大师高定Bespoke嘛……<span style="color: black;">哪些</span>贵上天的正装皮鞋就经常这么玩,<span style="color: black;">大众</span>应该看过有人飞好几次英国就为了Bespoke一双绅士皮鞋的吧。<span style="color: black;">不外</span>,那是正装鞋的玩法,让工装靴厂家<span style="color: black;">亦</span>这么搞,那很难很难……</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">日前</span>我<span style="color: black;">晓得</span>的<span style="color: black;">仅有</span>日本白云White Kloud在这么搞,加8000<span style="color: black;">能够</span>给客人单独Bespoke鞋楦,再算上其他各项<span style="color: black;">花费</span>,总价很感人。国内的话,近期看到国内制鞋大师黄师傅(<span style="color: black;">博客</span>:玩门鞋道)做了双类似于工装靴的款式。理论上,<span style="color: black;">倘若</span>钱给够,找他应该<span style="color: black;">亦</span>能搞出Bespoke工装靴。</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">关于这一点,有些国靴虽然做不到白云<span style="color: black;">那样</span>极端,但<span style="color: black;">最少</span>会照顾国内玩家的穿着舒适度,特意把楦的脚围调宽一点。</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">总的<span style="color: black;">来讲</span>,我觉得<strong style="color: blue;">国靴的部分<span style="color: black;">优良</span>在于:</strong></p>国内人工成本低,<span style="color: black;">能够</span>用更低的价格<span style="color: black;">得到</span><span style="color: black;">一样</span>工艺与细节的<span style="color: black;">制品</span>国靴没多少品牌情怀,溢价能力低。可玩性比较高,<span style="color: black;">倘若</span>你跟主理人关系好,<span style="color: black;">能够</span>尝试<span style="color: black;">区别</span>工艺、皮料、楦型的组合,产生<span style="color: black;">有些</span><span style="color: black;">奥妙</span>的化学反应。这在国外工装大牌上是很难玩到的。脚感<span style="color: black;">广泛</span>不错,我买的大部分国靴比我买的RW等等外国工装靴舒适度<span style="color: black;">显著</span>高。<span style="color: black;">虽然说</span>国外的月亮比较圆,但国人更懂国人脚,应该是真的。<div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/8b0b9e8010c047e282d00db342a743b1~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=Db%2FtsMTxh7jAMyZtCmu0hrO8pHw%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">简单说几个,大部分是我买过的,链接贴了后被张大妈判违规了,<span style="color: black;">因此</span>就不贴了,自己百度一下应该都能找到吧。</p>
    <h3 style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;">西部鞋神</h3>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">应该算国靴里面规模数一数二的了,有自己的工厂。成熟的流水线<span style="color: black;">设备</span>固特异,品质稳定,代工过JUSTIN,CHIPPEWA,FRYE。卖的好的基本都是复刻款。</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/76d249000cab4b09b6cc97bcef37f43a~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=eR%2B8UwdBduRy1EL7VD9yyHmTZuU%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <h3 style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;">铁履Iron Boots</h3>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">楦型辨识度高,后处理(Finishing)不错,得到日本玩家认可,上过日本杂志。<span style="color: black;">表率</span>型号陆战队符合大部分人审美。</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/1b7b1adbb5054868b0a49868380edf5e~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=4AvokiTQibjHJfnhAN5xjbun5hc%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <h3 style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;">履诚Shonest</h3>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">皮料工艺<span style="color: black;">选取</span>多,可玩性高,有<span style="color: black;">非常多</span>奇特的款式。但后处理不多,使得拍照卖相<span style="color: black;">通常</span>。</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/a459cf5b37b34ad482b2d3f0a037fc38~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=lqXNEUS2X57dUC%2Bdi02TNryg8Vo%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">以上3个简<span style="color: black;">叫作</span>“西铁诚”。。。</p>
    <h3 style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;">火猫手造</h3>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">做工精细,细节扣得多,注重鞋边鞋跟打磨等等。有的工装款式为了外线细密,采用手缝,并且沿条的接合<span style="color: black;">亦</span>很<span style="color: black;">重视</span>。</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/dd98e812a57d4550a0375a0fe8f94099~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=UnwJgWLYCEMJDkUFtzvE7hvLzD8%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <h3 style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;">Alternative Country</h3>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">与Bob dong关系比较深,以复刻小白的型号为主。</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/b0e59d619f9840c89ce55bdb69dc834d~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=kWdDo1eF4APCdWhphJWqSKWM0NM%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <h3 style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;">WM1978</h3>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">不<span style="color: black;">晓得</span>该<span style="color: black;">不应</span>放<span style="color: black;">这儿</span>,感觉有点越级打怪了,正装为主</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/0303d5c4039542b99208587fb63b2cc0~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=QldBbwQ5KlsLLdufOb%2Fs3zuEu7I%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">其他还有<span style="color: black;">有些</span>国外牌子<span style="color: black;">然则</span>在国内代工的,<span style="color: black;">亦</span>算是能<strong style="color: blue;">破除国产靴不行这种说法</strong>,<span style="color: black;">例如</span>Ins上略火、厦门产的Grant Stone,东莞产的Red Wing劳保系列,以及有点国产日产傻傻分不清楚的Brother Bridge。</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/cd5b1504f77e48b09e586f948217c842~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=D5yPKA56jl18tUV3T3xg5%2BQvUFA%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">当我还是萌新的时候,我<span style="color: black;">亦</span>跟风迷恋过日产美产等等外国产。但当我把美国、欧洲、日本、国内生产的<span style="color: black;">有些</span>咔叽单品都买过玩过以后,我就不怎么迷信日本制造日本匠人精神了,在我看来并<span style="color: black;">无</span>太多神奇且厉害的<span style="color: black;">地区</span>(<span style="color: black;">不外</span>我觉得日本白云是真挺厉害的)……之前<span style="color: black;">非常多</span><span style="color: black;">资讯</span>相信<span style="color: black;">大众</span><span style="color: black;">亦</span>看过,标题是“日益崩坏的日本制造”,讲的<span style="color: black;">便是</span>神户钢厂造假等等<span style="color: black;">各样</span>质量问题,<span style="color: black;">而后</span>把日<span style="color: black;">自己</span>引以为傲的工匠精神写作“躬匠精神”——出了事就鞠躬道歉嘛……</p>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/ec385c8b3f8642f7bf9aa86715c8d809~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=RJNYKnrGn8rxzxGup9LrRudZKbY%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <div style="color: black; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 10px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/pgc-image/929876ae245b4d128aeb27115faee062~noop.image?_iz=58558&amp;from=article.pc_detail&amp;lk3s=953192f4&amp;x-expires=1723645110&amp;x-signature=Lo9taiTmRfLv19VyKznulXZuFFo%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></div>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">其实说到底,还是一个时间问题,<strong style="color: blue;">沉淀的<span style="color: black;">不足</span>嘛</strong>。国靴<span style="color: black;">日前</span>最长的<span style="color: black;">亦</span>就六七年,<span style="color: black;">倘若</span>再沉淀二三十年,应该会好<span style="color: black;">非常多</span>,到时候还能延续下来的牌子肯定会让世界刮目相看的。就好比日本制造有一段时间<span style="color: black;">亦</span>曾是“辣鸡”的代名词,但时间真的能改变一切。<span style="color: black;">因此</span>,就让时间去发挥它的<span style="color: black;">功效</span>,到时候再来看国靴进化后的样子~</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">最后,花一下午时间打这么多字,这篇<span style="color: black;">文案</span><span style="color: black;">亦</span>不是说让多少国靴反对者转变成支持者,只是想起到<span style="color: black;">有些</span>阐述客观事实,让<span style="color: black;">大众</span>看清真相的<span style="color: black;">功效</span>。</p>
    <p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">你说把这些东西<span style="color: black;">科研</span>清楚有啥用?<span style="color: black;">好似</span><span style="color: black;">亦</span>并<span style="color: black;">无</span>什么卵用。工装靴、复古、咔叽,这些总归是一种兴趣<span style="color: black;">兴趣</span>,总归是一种玩物分享。<span style="color: black;">制品</span><span style="color: black;">那样</span>多,最后还是会买自己<span style="color: black;">爱好</span>的,<strong style="color: blue;">花钱无非是图个爽快和开心</strong>。买完之后自己满意开心就好了,若是能分享出来给<span style="color: black;">大众</span><span style="color: black;">增多</span>一点消费经验自然是更好的。但<strong style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">必定</span>要小心“我<span style="color: black;">爱好</span>的/我买到的<span style="color: black;">便是</span>最好的<span style="color: black;">因此</span>我要把它吹上天,缺点我就一带而过”这种极端<span style="color: black;">认识</span>形态的影响</strong>。</p>




qzmjef 发表于 2024-10-16 19:08:26

你的见解独到,让我受益匪浅,非常感谢。

m5k1umn 发表于 5 天前

同意、说得对、没错、我也是这么想的等。
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