「小南夜读」黄芽菜大白菜
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<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-tjoges91tu/SibbbJ8FLTx1sG~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1721492998&x-signature=CKVA6ScQQ4RZEh6zbzPjP6c31ew%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-tjoges91tu/Sw09ZlDD133V0U~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1721492998&x-signature=qh3sezga%2FX4%2BBWY4%2BrG6xeeisbE%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></p><span style="color: black;">
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;">▼</p>
</span><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-tjoges91tu/SibP0tyI09vLaN~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1721492998&x-signature=RGBfzK%2FNrIRDQm3mhsm5Ox2HWl4%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;"><strong style="color: blue;">每一个周日<span style="color: black;">夜晚</span>｜小南与你说晚安</strong></span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">文｜</span><span style="color: black;">虹全</span></span><span style="color: black;">原文刊载于2022.1.21江南晚报人文周刊</span><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-tjoges91tu/SibQfbC5vbMent~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1721492998&x-signature=3Nj2C6I4ksywVyNJ4TdRZ0V5bts%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;">
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">年少时，记得城北邻里的父老乡亲都<span style="color: black;">叫作</span>大白菜为黄芽菜。<span style="color: black;">周边</span>大河池菜场几分钱一斤，价廉物美。<span style="color: black;">哪些</span>年黄芽菜<span style="color: black;">始终</span>是冬季的当家菜，<span style="color: black;">没</span>论蔬菜品种<span style="color: black;">怎样</span>更新换代，黄芽菜的地位似乎<span style="color: black;">没</span>可撼动。迄今在我关于儿时冬天的记忆里，最鲜明活跃的，就是屋檐下挂着长长的冰凌，梁上吊着几颗<span style="color: black;">巨大</span>的黄芽菜；这菜在冬天的老屋里，散发着经久不变的清香。父亲说黄芽菜能久藏，是为雪天严冻闹菜荒时备着的。</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-tjoges91tu/SwflAisGUmXuzC~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1721492998&x-signature=6HhglL%2F8d5Og5jZD5l%2BTFqDkMAA%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">图源：公众平台<span style="color: black;">供给</span></span></span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">黄芽菜极是温润爱人的，当年任是<span style="color: black;">怎么样</span>贫寒的厨房，都有它实在敦厚的身影；又好打理，不故作高深，随意就能撑起一盘子<span style="color: black;">乃至</span>一整张饭桌。与任意的食材和作料合作起来，<span style="color: black;">常常</span><span style="color: black;">显现</span>超出预料的结果。尤其那砂锅烂糊肉丝、烂糊面筋，开胃佐饭，冬天吃暖身体，弟妹们<span style="color: black;">尤其</span><span style="color: black;">爱好</span>。</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">陶宗仪的《辍耕录》里有段文字，叙述元代末年，“扬州至正丙申、丁酉间，兵燹之余，城中屋址遍生白菜。大者重十五斤，小者<span style="color: black;">也</span>不下八九斤。有膂力人所负才四五窠耳，<span style="color: black;">也</span>异哉”！虽是<span style="color: black;">做为</span>“异象”和“奇闻”来记录的，但<span style="color: black;">能够</span>想象，连年战乱，生灵涂炭，若<span style="color: black;">无</span>这不择地而生的野“白菜”，将有多少<span style="color: black;">没</span>辜的生命罹难。</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">黄芽菜好吃，尤其经过霜打之后，<span style="color: black;">更加是</span>味美。早在南朝时期，就有素食主义者周颙说过，晚秋时的黄芽菜与初春韭菜<span style="color: black;">同样</span>极鲜美，可并列为蔬菜中滋味最佳者。</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">民间流传的一句谚语说得好：“百菜还是白菜美，诸肉唯有猪肉香”。众口皆碑，“白菜”被誉为“蔬菜之王”由来已久。文人常是惜墨如金的，东坡赞美“白菜”却毫不吝惜词语，不惮<span style="color: black;">运用</span>力气，他居然形容“白菘类羔豚，冒土出熊蹯”。直译出来是说，白菜的味道堪与羔羊肉和小猪肉相比，是从土壤里生长出来的熊掌。</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;">诗人李渔说：“菜类甚多，其杰出者则数黄芽……每株大者可数斤，食之可忘肉味。”黄芽菜之美可忘肉味，李渔所见显然与东坡略同。</span></p>
<p style="font-size: 16px; color: black; line-height: 40px; text-align: left; margin-bottom: 15px;"><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">此刻</span>，超市里的黄芽菜大白菜，<span style="color: black;">鲜嫩</span>个大，货源充足，很受千家万户尤其是老<span style="color: black;">没</span>锡人的<span style="color: black;">喜欢</span>。</span></p><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-tjoges91tu/Sib6Qx23DHncjJ~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1721492998&x-signature=B%2BWUGMVItwuIIMe2kJE2F59ljW4%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"><span style="color: black;">责编：小南</span><span style="color: black;">校对：王丹丹</span><span style="color: black;">编审：丁晴</span><span style="color: black;"><span style="color: black;">源自</span>：江南晚报</span><span style="color: black;"><strong style="color: blue;"><span style="color: black;">爱好</span>小南声音和这篇<span style="color: black;">文案</span></strong></span><span style="color: black;"><strong style="color: blue;">你就点</strong><strong style="color: blue;">亮</strong></span><span style="color: black;"><strong style="color: blue;"><img src="https://p3-sign.toutiaoimg.com/tos-cn-i-tjoges91tu/Sib4Ipu5XKgZWs~noop.image?_iz=58558&from=article.pc_detail&lk3s=953192f4&x-expires=1721492998&x-signature=ngW%2B4Tr1iSCfckdelGDM0ZZZrBc%3D" style="width: 50%; margin-bottom: 20px;"></strong></span>
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